I had the rest of the bulwark capping to do today, but a lovely surprise slowed the job. Sandy, Louise and my Godson Reg arrived to inspect the works and lend a hand. I managed to get the capping on the transom done before they arrived. I also started sanding the finishing panels on either side.
However when my guests came, work stopped. But I did take advantage of the extra pairs of hands, and we managed to refit the wheel house roof panels.
After that, it was off to Woolverstone to walk to Pin Mill, stopping for a picnic on the way. Louise had made delicious egg sandwiches. The dogs enjoyed the scraps and the walk. The Butt & Oyster provided a refreshing drink at the halfway stage.
After they headed home, I finished oiling the teak capping, and sanded and oiled the side panel.
A great day overall.
SINDUR IV 
So lovely to read these Chris, though it makes me miss Cathexis out in Spain all the more. You have inspired me however and I promise that my next trip out will include a day or two with the teak cleaner! I have a question please. My teak is left unvarnished. Not so pretty but with the heat of the mediterranean sun, sanding down and revarnishing each year would be necessary to keep it looking half way good, My question is, does Danish Oil simply disappear over time without looking unsightly as old varnish inevitably does?
Take care
Eric
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Hi Eric, I’m pleased you like my little updates.
My handrail on the stern of the boat and the two side panels were very high gloss varnish at some stage. However, the sun and winter dampness had ruined this and it was peeling off, as you can see in the pics. I hand stripped the hand rail with the aim of revarnishing, but I realised I was setting myself up for detailed work every couple of years. To get a good finish with the varnish, you need to strip the wood back so that it is bare wood. Then you need to send it several times to get it very smooth. You then apply, – are you ready for this – at least 7 coats of varnish, letting it dry between each coat and giving it a light sanding in between. You should then end up with something beautiful. It should last for several years, but it will degrade. Once it does, you have to repeat the whole process.
Oiling is relatively quick in comparison. Having stripped the wood, I sanded it and rubbed oil into it. Next day, I rubbed more oil into it, which took 5 minutes…you can wipe it over with an oily rag at any time. It feeds the wood.
Danish oil seems to have good waterproofing properties. If you sand the wood well, and then several coats of oil, it can look like varnish.
For me it is a quicker solution.
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Thank you for your detailed reply Chris. I guess I was wondering what the Danish oiled teak would look like if left for, say, a couple of years. Would it just absorb and end up looking like bare teak? If so it is a great option for the Med
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I think it will look like bare teak Eric, rather than a peeling mess. I reckon you would get away with rubbing more on every 6 months or so to keep her looking sharp.
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Hi Chris, I replied first on my iPad but it seems to have become lost in the ether! If you get this (or something similar) twice please feel free to delete one.
Anyway…. thank you for your detailed reply. I really don’t want to go down the varnishing route especially as the Med sun speeds up the deterioration, but Danish oil is an interesting option!
What I was wondering is, what will it look like in a couple of years or so?If it will simply absorb over time and end up looking like the original bare teak it would be a great option leaving the possibility of simply not repeating if for any reason I prefer bare teak.
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